How many segments of leadcore/reel size

I will only have two reel/rod combos for leadcore. How many segments should I put on each? For leadcore, which size reel do I need shimano tekota 600 or 700?

If you have already bought the Tekotas there’s need to read any further, good luck. The Shimano Tekota’s are very nice reels, great quality great drags but one of the worst reels to use for leadcore or copper when considering the retrieve ratio of the reel. Leadcore and copper setups are commonly 200’ to 300’ or more behind a trolling board. Add another 100’ to 200’ or more from the boat to the trolling board. So expect to deploy a minimum of 300’ to 500’ or more every time you set out a leadcore or copper rig. The Tekota’s retrieve ratio is 4.2:1 and retrieve 25” on the 500 and 600 series and 33” on the 700 and 800 series. So if there is no slippage while cranking the leadcore or copper back in expect to crank 144 times to return 300’ and 240 times to return 500’ on a Tekota 500 or 600. It may not sound like a big deal but you’ll find using a reel with a return ratio 4.2:1 or less is going to be a workout. I’d recommend a reel with a retrieve ratio of 6:1 or more with a reliable drag. Daiwa is now making a nice mid-range line counter with a reliable drag system. The Sealine SG-3B has enough capacity, (480 yards of 20#, 0.018” Dia) to hold 300’ of 27# leadcore, (0.024” Dia.) and 400 yards of 50# super braid, (0.015” Dia.) and 30’ of 20 fluorocarbon leader. The SG-3B has a retrieve ratio of 6.1:1 with 42.9” of line retrieved per crank. So a length of 300’ will require 84 cranks and retrieving 500’ will require 139 cranks. A reel that retrieves 42.9” of line per crank will require 42% less reel cranks than a reel that retrieves 25” of line per crank. Save some money on a reel and save your arms and hands from over work while doing something that’s supposed to fun and enjoyable. Good Luck SS

You can pick up used Penn 209 or 309 reels pretty darn cheap these days. They work fine for lead core. Unless you are adding weights a line counter is generally not need for lead.

i agree with lou 100%. of all the setups you can put out there, a board/core rod will put the least strain on your reel. you don't have the drag screaming runs or the rod breaking strikes like you do with rigger/dipsey lines. if you are going to economize on reels, the leadcore rods are the ones to do it on

I'm going to add something that I know guys debate, but here's my opinion: if you're just getting started...go with cheap reels for leadcore....why? Well, here's where I think the debate ensues: - Leadcore lines are L O N G. Much longer, and possess much more slack than while trolling than your riggers and/or divers. When your divers get hit, you know about it right away. The line is tight (unless you're using mono...which is another topic) and the reel/drag's job is to help provide a smooth point for that fish to pull against. The same goes for riggers, lines are pretty tight, and there isn't much slack when a fish strikes. That, and there is typically less line between the bait and the rod tip. With lead core and long lines, the story is a little different. It's my belief that lead core and copper lines have more slack and droop in the lines (rod tip to board, board to bait) When fish get hooked, they have to do some line pulling (and quite a bit of line) before you know about it, and before your reel or reel drag gets engaged. For that reason, I say that IF you are going to go cheap on reels, leadcore is the place to do it. It's the safest place. That said, I run convectors and the coldwaters on mine, only because I've upgraded over the years. If you're just getting started, go cheap. My opinion

With a little mono+plenty of power pro,mono for the board clip,lead core and leader you can get 6 colors on a 30 series reel.( I used woodstock brand leadcore). I have the measurements if you need them.

Strube- I think the point was made, you may or may not need to. I don't know the capacity of those reels. I just bought two 30 series Okuma Convectors mentioned, and it is all based on what lines you are using. My new convectors, running 50# braid backing, if I remember I had the option of a full spool of lead, when using the thinner suffix advanced (thinner than others). Still plenty of braid, and short leader. Point is, you need all the info, then use a calculator to get some close estimates for starting out. Google it, and you'll most likely find other options. First one to pop up when I did it was this: http://www.accuratefishing.com/support/linecal.php You need the brand of lead core to get the right diameter. The backing, and how much, balanced with line past the lead. Any inserted mono for connecting boards, if you are doing that as well. Put the factors in, using the advice posted.... and you'll start to see what comes together to end up just shy of filling a spool. I am all knew at it... but gather the info... and go from there. I'm enjoying figuring it out, and hoping not to be "too" wrong.

I am just starting out. Once I get some things figured out I can always add rod and reel combos. How many segments before I need to bump up to tekota 700?

If I was just starting I would go with the convectors as well,30 series w/ line counter. 300 yds of rip cord- power pro etc on top of 20 to 25# mono.Buy a full core of whatever lead core and add 2 colors to one and 3 to the other, you then have 2 spare set ups just in case. I would then use the money saved on the tekotas and buy a set of torpedo divers and follow the chart to reach your desired depth. I also currently carry several 2's,3's and every color through 12.If I knew then what I do now I would have gone with the set up above.

I'm guessing the reason that you are only going to have two lead setups is financial? If so, then I completely agree to skip the tekotas, and go with something like an Okuma Convector. Don't get me wrong, tekotas are awesome reels. If you've got the scratch, then go for it, but I see a really good drag as being more important on dipsy or rigger reels. You could probably get four setups with okuma reels vs two with the tekotas..... If you want to get two setups as cheap as possible though, split a full core of lead into a 3 color and a 7 color. It's the most economical option, covers two different parts of the water column and by playing with snap weights\ clipping to the lead you should be able to cover almost all your bases. Your just delaying the inevitable though, if you get into this, you'll have all sorts of different setups, as Eyechaser mentioned.

Add to the factors of consideration, there are different types of lead core, that achieve different diving depths. Commonly 5' per color, the newer suffix advanced in thinner, and often see claims of getting 7-7.5' per color. You can also get more on a spool.

strube - I agree with eyechaser. too many knots when you segment it like that. my advice would be to forsake the tekotas and go with a more economical reel like an okuma magda pro...you could do 5 set ups with okumas for the same price as 2 tekotas...I would go with a 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 color. these set ups along with some snap weights will really allow you to be versatile and get where the fish are, no matter where they are in the water column. the okumas are certainly not the quality of the tekotas, but with reasonable care, they will provide quite a few years of good operation at a very reasonable price.

If you segment a full core into 2 color sections, you are adding 8 additional knots, which is 8 additional points of failure. Yes, you can do it, and it will get you by, but I wouldn't recommend it. Last year, you could have gotten by with nothing over a 5 color. The water was cold and the fish were fairly high. My longer cores were pretty dead. The water stayed cold all year so never really had to try to get too deep. It may be completely different this year. If I were to only have 2, I would probably do a 3 and a 5 color. You can use snap weights or dive bombs to get deeper. I would immediately start saving my pennies for more gear for the next year. I started with 4 leadcore rods. I now carry a 2 color, 2 3 colors, a 4 color, 2 5 colors, 2 7 colors, an 8 color, 2 ten color, a 100 copper, a 200 copper, and a 300 copper. I will probably add more copper rods in the future. What gets run the most changes every trip depending on where the fish are. For reels, the amount of lead you put on will change the size of the reel you run. I have my shorter core setups on Shimano TR200s, mediums on Tekota 600s, and my full cores on Tekota 700s.

Put a 5 color on one and a 2 or 3 on the other. Use clip weights (Torpedo or other brand) in front of lead core to get additional depths if needed.

strubedog, that's a tough one to answer with a specific number. each day is different. but for guys who just starting out or don't have a lot of equipment I recommend this. first a large reel is better. more $ but... secondly I suggest this set-up. if you have 2 reels make one an even number segment reel and the other one an odd one. by this I mean plan on putting 10 colors on one reel (even reel) and either 9 or 11 colors (odd one)on the other, BUT put lead core on reels in 2 color segments with a 5-7' piece of mono between them heres how; after putting on your backing reel on 2 colors then tie on the piece of mono between that first 2 colors and the next 2 colors. now reel on 2 more colors. repeat mono splice again. do this till you have the 10 colors on the even reel and do it again for the 9 or 11 color "odd" reel. REASON; on the even number rod and reel you now can run a 2 color, 4 color,6color,8color or a ten color board. whatever you want. the mono piece if for attaching to the boards as lead core should never be put into any clips or releases ever. on the other rod you can let out 1 color, 3 colors , 5 colors etc. a very inexpensive to start and still get those fish. many guys, my self included do have separate rod and reels for each color that we use. I have a 2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10, but each one is a rod and reel, lots of $. good luck and happy fishing, lee