Archery
Finally got a recurve
Still at it. Had a little set back over the summer but have been shooting everyday for the past few weeks. Got a set of heavier limbs for the bow and made up some heavier hunting arrows. Should be a fun season coming up. Plan is to hang up the compound for the entire season.
This can get pretty in-depth. Generally speaking, many of us traditional guys , when asked what arrow weight to strive for, say to stay around 10 grains per pound of bow pull.
A 45 pound bow gets around 450 grains, a 75 pound bow gets around 750 grains. You can go up higher and you can go lower, but understand that the lower you go, although the arrow goes faster, it also makes the bow incrementally noisier and even can damage the bow if you go too low. Too low of an arrow and the bow cannot transfer enough of its stored energy into the arrow, taking it out on the bow and sometimes causing damage.
Heavier arrows grab up more of that stored energy and can quiet a bow, sometimes a lot, but they go slower. Fast or slow equates to your aim point or gap.
If you keep with the same GPP ( grains per pound) as described above, there should not be a whole lot of difference between a 45 and a 75 pound bow in terms of aiming. Heavier bows throw heavier arrows about the same speed as lighter bows throw lighter arrows.
There can be substantially more difference between bows, in part due to performance, and in larger part due to how you hold it. High wrist vs low wrist will change things up.
Keep shooting. Take note of how you are doing things on good days. Sometimes how you hold the bow matters greatly. Do it the same way every day, every shot, but first find out and figure out YOUR best way.
How you address the arrow with your fingers ( this one I would have to show you to make it easier), deep hook, vs finger tips; loose fingers vs pre-bent fingers..... matters greatly. Again, find what you can do best, recognize that you are doing it, then do it every shot every day.
Same with each aspect of your shooting. Give yourself time to learn. It is easy when you have sights, especially front and back sights, I mean... once they are set, you can go back to the same aim exactly no matter how you hold your tongue. It is less easy when you have to do it by "the force". But you CAN do it, if that is what you want.
ChuckC
Moved out to 15 yards. While it is not pretty, the groups are better than my 10 yard groups 2 weeks ago.
When shooting bows of different poundage, how much does your point of impact change, if any? I read about people that shoot multiple bows and wondered how that worked.
Eventually you want to fine tune, but really, form trumps everything. I advise... shoot what you got for a while and look for groups. Not necessarily in the bull. You can actually walk your arrow impact left and right, and even to a lesser degree up and down just by tuning and arrow spine changes, as well as by short or long draws and even by a clean and a less than clean release. You don't HAVE to bare shaft tune, but it can make everything a bit better if you do ( and it works).
Just thinking out loud.... if I can get a bare shaft to fly perfect, think how well the feathered shaft will fly, and how much leeway it will give you for little ooopses. Ummm don't bare shaft with a broadhead. If it planes, there is no telling where it will end up.
I have been shooting for ever and I have good and bad days too. My ultimate response has been to learn how to be sneaky and get very close shots at game. I can hit a deer kill zone at ten yards all day, even on a bad day. At five, it is a gimme.
Chuck
Thanks for any and all advice. No doubt that this is both fun and challenging. One minute I'm shooting good, the next very poorly.
Is there much that can be seen as far as arrows being tuned shooting fletcher arrows. I am getting a pretty consistent nock left entry into the target. I'm waiting on a clamp for my bitzenburger jig so I can do work on these arrows, don't want to pull fetching until then. Or, is arrow tuning something to worry about once I get better form?
